At mid-latitudes, where the auroras are almost static, I would set the maximum exposure times allowed by your lens so that the stars don't come out blurred. Focus well on a bright star, set the maximum exposure time and limit for your lens so that the stars don't come out blurred (capture maximum light), ISO 800-3200, and use the widest possible aperture (this allows more light to enter).
If you want to appear in the photo, stick to the hyperfocal distance, and better yet, use fast shutter speeds (shorter exposure times) so that you don't come out blurred and in focus...

Edited March 25Mar 25 by Eder Galway

21 hours ago, NightSky said:

Maybe this thread should go to the "other" section? -- https://community.spaceweatherlive.com/forum/26-other/

The cellphone photography thread is there also -- https://community.spaceweatherlive.com/topic/3472-aurora-photography-hints-for-those-of-us-with-smartphones/

Thanks @NightSky for posting that smartphone link early on in the thread! Good hunting.

2 hours ago, JessicaF said:

Good luck looking for cliffs in Oklahoma :)

There are some here!

It would mean a long drive, though. The cliff might also not be super high, but could get the job done, ha! Diving head first would certainly help!

One from daft oclock this morning - which I unintentionally shot at f2.8 instead of f2.4 having nudged the aperture while changing ISO - meh... not too shabby even so.

Canon 5Dii Irix Blackstone 15mm 10 seconds ISO 2000 f2.8

One more important tip: Always get a window seat on airplanes when storms are likely: https://spaceweathergallery2.com/indiv_upload.php?upload_id=221472

5 hours ago, Cat Perkinton said:

One from daft oclock this morning - which I unintentionally shot at f2.8 instead of f2.4 having nudged the aperture while changing ISO - meh... not too shabby even so.

Canon 5Dii Irix Blackstone 15mm 10 seconds ISO 2000 f2.8

Awesome pic, Cat! I am out of likes. Is this form the last night?

4 hours ago, JessicaF said:

One more important tip: Always get a window seat on airplanes when storms are likely: https://spaceweathergallery2.com/indiv_upload.php?upload_id=221472

Awesome pic, Cat! I am out of likes. Is this form the last night?

You get unlimited reactions as a supporter or pro member. @JessicaF if ya weren’t aware.

I think you also have an increased file size limit but don’t quote me on that. Most of us were pleasantly surprised at the low cost.

Edited March 26Mar 26 by hamateur 1953
Cost/benefits

1 hour ago, hamateur 1953 said:

You get unlimited reactions as a supporter or pro member. @JessicaF if ya weren’t aware.

I think you also have an increased file size limit but don’t quote me on that. Most of us were pleasantly surprised at the low cost.

I already am a supporter. Bought two sweat shirts with "Warning: I won't shut up if asked about the space weather" :)

It is snowing outside. Geeeeeze.

I must’ve bought 400.00 bux worth of stuff for family and friends myself including the one with the Moose whose butt glows green in the dark!!! I didn’t realise that until my sister called laughing!!!

37 minutes ago, JessicaF said:

I already am a supporter. Bought two sweat shirts with "Warning: I won't shut up if asked about the space weather" :)

It is snowing outside. Geeeeeze.

Kp six now! overcast here but may clear later.

There are other options will tag @Vancanneyt Sander I’m not familiar with all tbh and @Marcel de Bont

Edited March 26Mar 26 by hamateur 1953
Tag, you’re it.

7 hours ago, JessicaF said:

One more important tip: Always get a window seat on airplanes when storms are likely: https://spaceweathergallery2.com/indiv_upload.php?upload_id=221472

Awesome pic, Cat! I am out of likes. Is this form the last night?

yes, or rather around 1am this morning - im like a burst cushion just now 😄 too little sleep

On 3/25/2025 at 9:21 AM, JessicaF said:

Never leave the tripod with your camera on the top unattended. Bad things can happen - wind can topple it over

I'm actually guilty of doing this all the time.

However, if it's windy, OR, if I have my best camera mounted on the tripod, I also bring a bucket that has big rocks in it and attach it to the center pole of the tripod. The bucket is on the ground, but the rope connecting it to the tripod is as tight as it can be without lifting the bucket.

That way I don't worry about anything blowing it over, and I can be away from the camera (and let it shoot time lapses) as I need to, even if it's going to bed when I'm tired but the camera needs to keep going.

Right now I'm debating doing all that, or just giving up since the numbers are not promising in any way for my latitude.

31 minutes ago, NightSky said:

I'm actually guilty of doing this all the time.

However, if it's windy, OR, if I have my best camera mounted on the tripod, I also bring a bucket that has big rocks in it and attach it to the center pole of the tripod. The bucket is on the ground, but the rope connecting it to the tripod is as tight as it can be without lifting the bucket.

That way I don't worry about anything blowing it over, and I can be away from the camera (and let it shoot time lapses) as I need to, even if it's going to bed when I'm tired but the camera needs to keep going.

Right now I'm debating doing all that, or just giving up since the numbers are not promising in any way for my latitude.

So, my tripod also has a hook down on the center pole to hang up a heavy bag for this purpose. When we anticipate, we can take precautions. It is when you need something quick from your car, leave for 10 seconds when disaster strikes.

Yeah, I hear ya. It does not look great.

Edited March 27Mar 27 by JessicaF

@Jessica @NightSky I usually use a low tabletop tripod and mount it on the hood or roof of the car.

Hello! Has anyone of you tested, to make a video of the Aurora with a smartphone? I have a Samsung galaxy s22 ultra and my smartphone has the ability to make a pro-video. With the picture-pro-version I had really good pictures of the Aurora. Thx and have a nice evening. 😊

37 minutes ago, Luise said:

Hello! Has anyone of you tested, to make a video of the Aurora with a smartphone? I have a Samsung galaxy s22 ultra and my smartphone has the ability to make a pro-video. With the picture-pro-version I had really good pictures of the Aurora. Thx and have a nice evening. 😊

Hi. And welcome. Agree 100% that today's modern phones will take excellent shots of the aurora as well as videos. BTW, there is a thread dedicated to photographing with smartphones: https://community.spaceweatherlive.com/topic/3472-aurora-photography-hints-for-those-of-us-with-smartphones/

You can share a link to your work, if you wish so, so that we can check it out. Good hunting!

my dad took some realtime video of the aurora recently on his s23, but I don't have it on hand to share. I might be able to share some of the aurora videos I've done personally though on the a7sii if im not lazy loll

Edited April 6Apr 6 by linkedwinters

1 hour ago, bluedemon25 said:

Yes mirrorleas I'be orderer the Canon R6 Mark II. I'm going to use the ring adapter for affordability reasons with the lens I've used on my EF Mount. It's pretty decent and served me well. It's a 35 mm which has been I guess a little closer to 50 with the aps-c camera I was using and now it'll be a bit wider. I think wide open. The f-stop capability is 2.0 but having read advice to go a few clicks down for sharpness without too much loss and capability. I usually do that. I'm still learning and experimenting with settings to see what works well and it does seem to have been a bit different from storm to storm.

I'm using this guy

Canon EF 35mm f/2 IS USM Lens

I call it my "cat lens" as I got it to take photos indoors of my cat playing when lighting is not intense and I needed a fast lens.

Ok, taking the conversation here.

35mm on a full frame will still be too long for most displays but it will obviously be better than on a cropped sensor. For smaller storms, I use 24-70mm f2.8 at 2.8. Your "cat" lens seems to be good and sharp even when fully opened (https://kenrockwell.com/canon/lenses/35mm-is.htm). There is a manual lens Rokinon 24mm f1.4 that I use for astrophotography that should be equally awesome for auroras. It is usable at f1.4! I have it but never used it for auroras and I should give it a try. Shooting at much lower ISO would be nice.

Awesome camera. You will have a ball!

@Cations If you never play with your images in Lightroom, you might be missing out on decent shots, indeed. It is no black magic. The information is in the RAW file. But under some difficult conditions, it may be hard to see. It is similar to the aurora being hard to see with light pollution, except we have no way enhancing our vision. If we could, we would! We use glasses, telescopes, microscopes, filters, everything possible. Nothing wrong with it. Why not carefully sifting through a RAW image and bring out what IS there just kind of hidden?

On 3/26/2025 at 7:28 PM, NightSky said:

I'm actually guilty of doing this all the time.

However, if it's windy, OR, if I have my best camera mounted on the tripod, I also bring a bucket that has big rocks in it and attach it to the center pole of the tripod. The bucket is on the ground, but the rope connecting it to the tripod is as tight as it can be without lifting the bucket.

That way I don't worry about anything blowing it over, and I can be away from the camera (and let it shoot time lapses) as I need to, even if it's going to bed when I'm tired but the camera needs to keep going.

Right now I'm debating doing all that, or just giving up since the numbers are not promising in any way for my latitude.

That gives me an idea: using neodymium magnets to affix my tripod to my vehicle hood during high wind conditions!

This is how I take photos in the warmth, comfort and while sipping coffee. The camera is controlled with a smartphone, and I have a lens heater to prevent fogging. If I'm going to take a lot of photos, I use a PowerBank with a special adapter, which is installed in the camera instead of the battery. It is desirable to have a separate high-capacity PowerBank for the heater, as it consumes a lot. You should know that the car shakes in strong winds.

1 hour ago, Samrau said:

This is how I take photos in the warmth, comfort and while sipping coffee. The camera is controlled with a smartphone, and I have a lens heater to prevent fogging. If I'm going to take a lot of photos, I use a PowerBank with a special adapter, which is installed in the camera instead of the battery. It is desirable to have a separate high-capacity PowerBank for the heater, as it consumes a lot. You should know that the car shakes in strong winds.

Now that's good thinking ready for the long haul.

8 minutes ago, DavidB said:

Now that's good thinking ready for the long haul.

By the way, you can use PTZ so you don't have to get out of the car at all 😄. You sit and point the camera at any point in the sky.

Limited tips I know that haven't already been posted

1. You can use "hot hands" chemical hand warmers to keep your lens (and batteries if needed) warm to prevent fogging. They are cheap, don't require power supplies, and work well. Just get some rubber bands or velcro strips to attach them.

2. Use a tripod rock bag. I keep one attached to every tripod I have. They are cheap, act like a platform or shelf to put stuff (external battery packs, lens cap, or rocks/weights to keep your tripod still and heavy). They nearly all have a hook underneath so you can hang your camera bag from it.

3. Wrap your tripod legs (top segments only) with road bike foam/cork/silicone/eva handlebar tape. This will help you distinguish your tripod from everyone else, but more importantly it will protect your hands from the cold carbon fiber or aluminum and feels nice. Finally, you can wrap hockey stick tape around each leg a hand length from the top. Wrap it into a thick layer until it's about 1/4" thick. Do that for each leg. Then wrap your silicone bike tape around your leg and the hockey tape creates a ledge where you can anchor your tripod rock bag that brings it down from the tip top of the legs. - Lots of benefits from the bike handlebar tape.

4. Use vibra-tite vc3 threadmate on the threads of your tripod rock claw feet to prevent them falling off and losing them. I use rock claws on my tripods because they provide much steadier shots than anything else. Even long tripod spikes sunk into the ground are not as good as claws. The reason is simple physics, the claws give you multiple points of contact with the ground for each foot where spikes are only one point of contact. Multiple points will be steadier and resist vibration better. You might only see it at the highest resolution of your photos but it's there. Maybe I'm lying though, test it out yourself. I only use rock claws unless I need to protect a surface from scratches indoors and have to switch to a rubber foot.

5. For night time to help get focus on foreground objects I use a cheap 25000 lumen spotlight. I light the heck of whatever I want in focus (usually the side of the neighbors house, lol) and then turn it off once my timelapses are running. You can get cheap big ones for maybe $15 and they are USB chargeable. Light weight and have support for setting it down while it's on.

6. USB fan. Sometimes I use a tiny USB fan to blow across the lens when it's humid, to prevent fogging of the lens. You need to figure out how to mount it without vibration of your camera, but it has worked for me without needing hot hands or a lens heater. A giant wall fan is better, but you're trapped in the range of an extension cord and wall sockets...

10 hours ago, hamateur 1953 said:

That gives me an idea: using neodymium magnets to affix my tripod to my vehicle hood during high wind conditions!

Get one with a built-in hook/ loop on it, like those magnets people use for magnet fishing. Then you can tie a cord between a tripod and the magnet.

2 minutes ago, NightSky said:

Get one with a built-in hook/ loop on it, like those magnets people use for magnet fishing. Then you can tie a cord between a tripod and the magnet.

I think his advice is meant for us 😄

My first post here. I live in Quebec, Canada and for my photos, I almost never have a lower shutter speed than 10 seconds. Most of the time, I took my photos between 6 to 8 seconds. I go between 800 to 3200iso.

As for my gear I use a Canon R6 with three lenses: 12mm f/2.8 fisheye, 15-35mm f/2.8 and a 35mm f/1.4

Here an example: